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Crítica | Restaurante Babette: El Homenaje De Dani García A La Cocina Francesa

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Puntuación: 7,5
Pan 6
Bodega 8
Café 8
Ambiente 7,5
Aseos 8
Servicio 7,5
Cocina 7,5
Postres 6,5

El restaurante que Dani García acaba de inaugurar en Marbella constituye un sentido homenaje a la cocina francesa. Y también, una alusión a sus años de aprendizaje en la Escuela de Hostelería La Cónsula en Málaga. “Entre 1994 Y 1996 nos enseñaban este tipo de platos. Nadie nos hablaba de Ferran Adrià, ni de la cocina de vanguardia española. La alta cocina giraba en torno a recetas francesas elaboradas con nata y mantequilla. La carta de Babette recoge algunas de ellas reinterpretadas con un bagaje técnico y conceptual completamente distinto”, afirma el chef. 

No faltan las popietas de lenguado, la merluza al champagne, los vol-au-vent, la langosta a la Thermidor ni el cóctel de gambas. Enunciados grabados a fuego en la historia de la gastronomía europea que desde la perspectiva actual suelen calificarse de trasnochados. Y a su lado, algunas fórmulas rehabilitadas como el solomillo Wellington que lleva tiempo de moda. Recetario francés que no supone una renuncia a algunas de sus debilidades personales.

A las raciones de jamón ibérico se suman las croquetas, los buñuelos de bacalao y las gambas en gabardina, bocados que conviven con entrantes más sofisticados. Algunos tan ampulosos como el dúo de caviares (Oscietra y Baeri) sobre un tartar de lubina. Otros de raíz popular como el Croque Monsieur parisiense, dos sugerencias conseguidas. 

El solomillo Wellington de Dani García en Babette. ampliar foto
El solomillo Wellington de Dani García en Babette.

Con un depurado academicismo, el servicio de sala trocea, trincha, flambea y termina platos delante de los clientes. Así sucede con el bogavante a la salsa Thermidor con besamel, receta difícil para el gusto actual, que Dani García mejora con un picadillo del propio crustáceo. Liturgia que se hace extensible al troceado del pan brioche recién horneado, al corte de un notable solomillo Wellington, o a las crêps sucette, que se terminan a pie de mesa, uno de los mejores postres. 

Los aromas acompañan a la sopa hojaldrada Paul Bocuse al Jerez que se acrecientan al romper la lámina de milhojas que la cubre. Plato no menos conseguido que el vol-au-vent Babette o codorniz en hojaldre a la salsa bourguignon, en alusión al filme El festín de Babette (1987) en el que se inspira. Por el contrario, resulta algo anodina la pechuga de pollo en galantina con colmenillas a la crema. Es agradable la merluza al champagne, y un punto nostálgicos los tres filetes de la Cónsula (ternera blanca a la pimienta, cerdo ibérico con mostaza y venado al vino de Málaga) en recuerdo de unas recetas emblemáticas en su propia escuela. Plato gustoso, aunque complicado de disfrutar en la medida que se acaban mezclando sabores y salsas. La bodega, pertrechada a conciencia, ofrece un sinfín de posibilidades.

En conjunto, un atractivo repertorio de recetas con historia y relato desempolvado y puesto al día con el sello de este gran cocinero.

Babette

  • Dirección: hotel Puente Romano. Bulevar Príncipe Alfonso de Hohenlohe, s/n. Marbella (Málaga).
  • Teléfono: 951 55 19 87.
  • Web: grupodanigarcia.com/babette.
  • Cierra: no cierra.
  • Precio: entre 100 y 150 euros por persona. Croque Monsieur (brioche, queso Comté, trufa y jamón cocido), 12 euros. Merluza al champagne, 32 euros. Bogavante Thermidor, 42 euros. Vol-au-vent Babette “Sarcófago de hojaldre” de codorniz a la bourguignon en homenaje a ‘El festín de babette’, 22 euros. Crêpes sucette, 12 euros.

El 'vol-au-vent Babette' o codorniz en hojaldre a la salsa 'bourguignon'. ampliar foto
El ‘vol-au-vent Babette’ o codorniz en hojaldre a la salsa ‘bourguignon’.

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Alberto Núñez Feijóo

Opinion Poll Reveals Revitalised Partido Popular Could Form New Government In Spain After December's General Election – Olive Press News Spain

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A respected monthly opinion poll is spelling potentially serious problems for the left-of-centre coalition led by Prime Minister, Pedro Sanchez.

Sanchez recently said that Spain will hold a general election in early December but poll numbers from the Sociological Research Centre(CIS) suggests that the PSOE-Podemos coalition could struggle to remain in power.

Quadrilateral Meeting In Villa Madama
PEDRO SANCHEZ(Cordon Press image)

The main opposition party, the conservative Partido Popular(PP), under new leader Alberto Nuñez Feijoo is breathing down the neck of the socialist PSOE in the latest CIS survey.

The PSOE stand on 30.3% with the PP on 28.7%.

The April study previously showed the best PP rating during the period of the current government- standing at 27.2%.

Feijoo replaced Pablo Casado who resigned over a smear campaign authorised by him against the Madrid region PP president, Isabel Diaz Ayuso.

Crucially the PSOE’s current coalition partner, Podemos, has dropped to just 9.6%- its worst rating since July 2021 when it stood at 10.7%.

The far-right Vox party, that had seen falling numbers since Feijoo took over, has bounced back 2.2% from April’s rating to 16.6%.

On sheer percentage terms, and even taking minor parties into account, the CIS figures indicate a higher probability of a PP-Vox government(45.3% total) as opposed to the PSOE and Podemos(39.9%).

The centrist Ciudadanos party has been virtually ‘wiped out’ in the poll, gaining an approval rating of just 2%.

The May CIS survey was based on around 4,000 telephone interviews carried out in the midst of a political storm caused by the Pegasus spyware case which saw Catalan pro-independence politicians bugged.

A key indicator of the political landscape will be next month’s Andalucia regional election, with the PP expected to continue as the main ruling party in an area that was a PSOE stronghold.

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Rangers’ Dream Dashed In Spain’s Sevilla After Losing Europa League Final On Penalties – Olive Press News Spain

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OVER 100,000 Rangers fans descended on Sevilla for the Europa League Final on Wednesday only to be agonisingly beaten on penalties by Eintracht Frankfurt.

The city was awash with pink-skinned Scots sinking Spanish lager for most of the day, with both sets of fans in good spirits.

Rangers 2
The Rangers players were left distraught as they were defeated 5 – 4 on penalties.

Photo: Cordon Press

Rangers initially went 1-0 up, thanks to a goal from Joe Aribo in the 67th minute before Frankfurt equalised 12 minutes later.

The tie went to extra time but with nothing separating the two teams, penalties beckoned, with Welshman Arron Ramsey missing the only one of 10, handing the trophy to Frankfurt.

There were some small scuffles between Frankfurt and Rangers fans in the afternoon, however most appeared to behave themselves.

Many Rangers fans had paid up to €800 for taxis from Malaga airport to the Andalucian capital, some 206 kms and two hours, 20 minutes away.

Rangers were allocated 9,500 tickets for Wednesday’s final, though far more travelled to the Andalucian capital.

The Spanish authorities allowed fans without tickets to watch the game on big screens in the Estadio de La Cartuja, Betis’ football stadium.

The city hosted the UEFA cup final between Porto and Celtic in 2003, with Porto coming out on top beating Celtic 3-2 in extra time. 

Flight and hotel prices have surged in the weeks leading up to the game and extra flights were laid on between UK airports and Sevilla in the run up to the match.

The fans were expected to bring in an added revenue of €60 million to the Andalucian capital over the fews days around the big match, with hostelry owners welcoming the boost.

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Scorchio! These Are Officially The Hottest Towns In Spain – Olive Press News Spain

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SPAIN is braced for what looks set to be the first heatwave of the year, sending the mercury soaring  across much of the peninsula, to temperatures considered unusually high for the time of the year.

And while the heatwave this weekend will affect much of Spain and especially the south sending residents and visitors alike to seek refuge in the pool or in the nearest air-conditioned facility, there are some towns that are infamous across Spain for regularly suffering extreme temperatures.

Not surprisingly, you’ll find them all in the region of Andalucia.

Ecija 

Ecija centre

This town near Sevilla is dubbed the ‘sarten de España’ – the frying pan – because of the sizzling climate during the summer months.

It is also famous for its twenty-four bell towers, as well  San Juan Church, Peñaflor Palace and La Casa del Gremio de la Seda.

Last summer the mercury peaked at 46ºC in Ecija on August 14, according to the Spanish meteorology agency AEMET.

Sanlucar la Mayor 

Also in the province of Sevilla, Sanlucar la Mayor regularly reaches temperatures above a sweltering 46ºC. The village is full of interesting buildings and monuments such as the 13th Century San Pedro’s church and the 14th Century Santa Maria from the XIV century, but visitors will want to avoid sightseeing in the town at the peak of the summer months.

El Carpio 

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El Carpio pictured on the town website.

This town in Cordoba province is well-known by Spaniards because of the tower of Garcia Mendez built in 1325 or the church Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. El Carpio has in the past registered 47,1ºC and 47,3ºC  placing it in the record books.

Torreblascopedro

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The Church of San Jose. Photo: Ayuntamiento de Torreblascopedro

This small town in Jaen province often registers among the highest temperatures in Spain and has peaked at 46ºC. Vistors are encouraged to tour the Church of San Jose and the historic Town Hall but most residents will be wilted inside behind closed shutters during the hot days of the summer months.

Marmolejo

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Photo from Mapio.

Also found in Jaen province, Marmolejo in the foothills of the Sierra Morena is famous for its San Bartolomé bridge and its 14ºC Aragonesa Castle and the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Paz. This town has recorded a top temperature of 46.5ºC.

Hottest provinces

Map Showing The Average High Temperatures During The Summer Months In Spain From 1981 To 2010
Map reveals average high temperatures during the summer months in Spain between 1981 and 2010. Source: AEMET

In terms of highest average temperatures in summer in Spain, Aemet places Cordoba province at the top of the list with an average 36.5°C throughout the month of August. Sevilla is just behind at one degree cooler with an average temperature of 35.5°C during August.

Highest ever temperature

The town of Montoro in Cordoba province holds the record for the single highest temperature ever recorded in Spain reaching 47.3 °C in July 2017.

Summer cool

Captura De Pantalla 359 695x420 1
Head to this spot for the coolest climes in summer!

Those who prefer colder climes during the height of the summer should head to the little village of Griegos, located in the Sierra de Albarracin in the province of Teruel in Aragon.

At an altitude of 1,604 metres above sea level it is the second highest town in Spain but holds the record as officially the town with the lowest temperatures in summer, when the thermometer can drop to 0ºC even in August, and a duvet is most definitely required. 

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