FROM the palaces of Spain to the cathedrals of colonial Mexico and the revivalist flair of early 20th-century California, the Churrigueresque style dazzled with theatrical excess and sculptural extravagance – a brief but unforgettable flourish in architectural history.
Whether you find it breath-takingly beautiful, or over-the-top hideous, there’s no denying that the style has a strong flavour.
This extremely elaborate design tendency was in fashion in Spain from about 1680 to 1750. It spread to the Spanish colonies (notably Mexico), but is almost never seen anywhere else.
Churrigueresque is a branch of the Baroque tradition – in fact, one of its most flamboyant and decorative expressions. While Baroque architecture is known for its drama and richness, Churrigueresque took those qualities to theatrical extremes, especially in its treatment of portals, altars and facades.
Because it relies on exaggerated detail, it rarely manifests itself on flat walls. Doorways, being easier to work, are where it is most often to be found.
So where did this strange architectural form get its strange name?
The answer is, from its namesake, the sculptor Jose Benito de Churriguera, who died in 1725. He and his two brothers, Joaquin and Alberto, were jobbing craftsmen and architects, working in Salamanca and Madrid.
The Universidad Pontificia ceiling in Salamanca. Credit: flickr Javier Martin
What Jose and his family were striving for was not ‘rustication’ (which refers to rough, textured masonry), but rather a radical reworking of classical ornamentation – manipulating columns and entablatures into dramatic, sculptural forms that some would call grotesque.
The brothers caught the mood of the time. As they were awarded more and more contracts, they pushed their designs to new limits of ornamentation.
Their work survives all over Salamanca and in parts of Madrid. They even made it (briefly) to Andalucia, planning and building the facade of the San Telmo Palace in Sevilla, and a huge altar inside Ronda’s Santa Maria la Mayor.
The Sant Telmo Palace in Sevilla. Credit CC Wikimedia
Perhaps the finest examples of Churrigueresque are to be found in Mexico. The Cathedral of Zacatecas and Santa Prisca in Taxco are outstanding specimens.
What often happened was that Mexican churches like the Parroquia Antigua in Guanajuato stood unfinished for long periods of time. During the 18th century, these were often completed in grand style as money became available.
When the Jesuits were expelled from Mexico and other Spanish territories in 1767, they left behind institutions, funds and architectural legacies that contributed to a wave of construction in the churrigueresque style.
Improbably, this highly ornate ‘look’ made it into the 20th century.
In 1915, there was a Panama–California ‘expo’, at which two American architects made playful forays into the Spanish–Mexican format, triggering a new craze.
Bertram Goodhue and Carleton Winslow developed ‘California Churrigueresque’, and many of their buildings still stand today in the city of San Diego.
The California Tower in Balboa Park San Diego. Credit: flickr slworking2
Could the style ever make another comeback?
We are reluctant to say ‘never’, but it seems unlikely. Modern materials do not lend themselves to protracted modelling.
Furthermore, modern owners are cost-conscious, and do not see ornamentation as a high priority.
Most important of all, churrigueresque was a form of ‘trompe l’oeil’ – an attempt to convince the observer that heavy stone is a light and nimble material.
Today we build lightly. There is no need to beguile anyone, and therefore no modern role for this hugely elaborate style.
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City Lit’s head of school for culture and communication Claudio Guasti has warned against using ‘Estoy caliente’
Its literal translation of ‘I am hot’ in English, actually means ‘I am aroused’ in Spanish.
The proper expression is ‘tengo calor.’ Although this translates to ‘I have heat’, in Spanish it’s the proper way to express you are hot!
Saying ‘soy cálida/cálido’ would also be incorrect as it refers to someone’s personality, like being a warm or kind person, not your physical temperature.
You can use the word caliente in other situations though, Gausti explained to the paper Liverpool Echo.
For example “me gustaría un té caliente”, meaning “I would like a hot tea”, is appropriate.
Similarly saying something like “el café está muy caliente”, meaning “the coffee is very hot”, is also okay.
Gausti said another common language mistake is people saying they’re pregnant in Spanish, when they really mean they are embarrassed.
“Lots of Spanish words sound very similar to their English translation, for example, café for coffee, tren for train, or plato for plate,” he said.
“It can be easy when following this pattern to assume the word ’embarazada’ might mean ’embarrassed’, but it actually means ‘pregnant’, which could raise a few eyebrows and cause a few smirks if used in the wrong context. To really say you are feeling embarrassed or sheepish, say ‘estoy avergonzado/a’.”
Gausti also warned against saying ‘hasta la vista’ a term meaning ‘until I see you again’ which gained popularity through Arnold Schwarzenegger’s character using the phrase in Terminator 2.
He confirmed Spanish speakers never use this term, and instead recommends using ‘hasta luego’ or ‘adios’, which mean ‘see you later’ and ‘goodbye.’
AFTER Guillermo Varela’s Austrian girlfriend told him his cooking was so delicious he needed to share it, he started to upload his Spanish recipes online.
Varela had been cooking for her and their friends while living in Berlin, homesick for his country’s cuisine.
Beginning with just 600 followers, his mouth-watering recipes for tortilla, paella, croquettes, Russian salad and octopus à feira, have enticed more than 330,000 followers and millions of views since.
Under the handle Cooking from Spain, Varela shares his instructional cooking videos with added flair, including jokes, and background information on the recipes, like fun anecdotes, or the background origins of the dishes he’s cooking.
In his video about Russian salad, he shares the controversy surrounding the origin of its name, which he claims is ‘as Spanish as my Spanish accent in English.’
At the beginning he thought making the quick 40-second videos would be easy, but had to teach himself editing, and he would end up spending four to five hours over the entire process.
While studying for his degree in Industrial Engineering at the University of Vigo, in his hometown, Vaerla discovered his true passion was cooking, when he’d come home after class and make lunch for his family.
He’s since started a newsletter writing about gastronomy and a YouTube channel, hoping to share Spain’s iconic dishes with a global audience.
Vaerla said Spanish cuisine isn’t as well-known.
“It’s our fault. Many times, we’ve tried to take advantage of tourists and scam them instead of selling our cuisine well. In other countries, they use their cuisine as a showcase for the world,” he told El Paìs.
“It’s unacceptable that a tourist leaves with the idea that a calamari sandwich is the scam they sell you in Madrid’s Plaza Mayor.”
Art history professor at the University of Grenoble in France, Djamila Fellague, discovered the piece up for sale in Spain on a well-known auction website based in the Netherlands, in August last year.
The stolen artefact. Credit: Policia
The expert in funerary architecture and sculpture contacted the Spanish police to report the sale.
The police saw that the funerary stele had been registered by the Bulgarian authorities on Interpol and set out to locate the current owner, also involving the Dutch authorities.
During the investigation, it was discovered, the piece had been acquired by the current owner in 2020 and had previously come from a private collection at the since-closed Biblical and Oriental Museum in León since 2010. Those items had belonged to a French collector who died in 2023.
The current owner was finally located, and he voluntarily handed it over to the police, stating he was unaware it was originally stolen.
A ceremony was held at the Bulgarian Embassy in Spain, and the piece was finally back in the hands of Bulgaria.