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La Fortuna, Costa Rica: Where The Community Takes Its Share Of The Tourism Industry

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Dozens of foreign tourists splashed at the base of a waterfall over 70 meters high amid the humid jungle, experiencing the primitive thrill of bathing in a pristine river alongside fish the length of a foot, under a warm drizzle and a stray ray of sun that completed the postcard scene. No one seemed worried about the 500 steps they would have to climb afterward to leave the site, which this year entered the top 1% of the best places to visit in the world, according to Tripadvisor. An Irish woman meditated to connect with the fibers of nature, two young Indians made a video call to their mother to tell her they had reached the waterfall she had recommended near the Arenal volcano, and many others filled their phones with images that would later invite more people to come, as about 350,000 do each year. But this is not just another business.

Almost half of the travelers who pass through La Fortuna, the most-visited town in Costa Rica, come to the waterfall. Costa Rica is the Central American country where ecotourism has established itself as a flagship, profitable industry thanks to a broad network of private businesses. This site, however, is owned by a community association and the profits will not end up in the accounts of an entrepreneur, international chains, or the state.

While dozens of foreigners swam in the river, a dozen elders from the community were doing so in the town’s semi-Olympic pool built with the waterfall’s earnings, as happens with other communal infrastructure, ornamental services, cultural investments, and social aid managed by the Asociación de Desarrollo Integral de La Fortuna (La Fortuna Association for Comprehensive Development, Adifort), a private non-profit organization with a public interest mandate. Almost none of the thousands of visitors who selected the La Fortuna waterfall on Tripadvisor as a favorite popular destination knew this, according to the notification the association received at the end of April.

Yeray Macías, a Spanish veterinarian who arrived with his family looking for nature, dense greenery, and clean rivers, was also unaware — although while he photographed the waterfall fed by late May rains he was pleased to learn that this destination is different because of its ultimate beneficiaries. None of the visitors would necessarily have heard that it all began with a destructive eruption of the Arenal volcano in 1968 and the state’s intention to keep the population in the area.

Locals received land in the 1970s to farm, but one man was granted this broken piece of volcanic wall and saw no use for crops or livestock, so he donated it to the community association. Over time, locals and foreigners alike experienced the extreme trek, walking for hours on muddy trails and descending on vines or ropes to the place that now, with La Fortuna turned into the country’s tourism hub, can be visited by almost anyone with the addition of improved access, safety, and complementary services.

“We are glad this stays with the community,” Macías says, pleased that his online search led him to a town set up to combine nature with good tourist facilities. Hundreds of hotels, restaurants and attractions with English-language adverts are part of the landscape marked by the conical silhouette of the Arenal volcano, which sometimes appears fully between the clouds and until recently put on an incandescent show when it erupted at night. Adifort takes advantage of this. “It’s as if they hacked the industry, intruders in the system,” says Mark Rodríguez, a young tourist from New Jersey, laughing as he tries to understand how an operation run by a community organization with nearly 500 local members works.

“We receive state support, but 95% of our resources come from our own management. That allows us to invest in the district (with 15,000 inhabitants) in many ways, largely thanks to what each tourist pays to visit Catarata Río La Fortuna,” José Eduardo Jiménez, Adifort’s commercial director, told EL PAÍS. The association also owns a shopping center, the bus station, the soccer field, and even the town’s central square with its own private security. “They call it ‘Mamá Adifort,’” adds Humberto Mora, the association’s vice president. Adifort manages assets worth nearly $44 million thanks to activities such as the waterfall that appears on thousands of travelers’ social media accounts across dozens of countries.

“It makes us feel very good because it promotes conscientious tourism, not just support for nature and conservation […] We show that other towns could do it too,” Jiménez added, surrounded by tourists who seemed to be enjoying the rain. The association trusts that travelers will continue to arrive in large numbers to La Fortuna, drawn by hot spring businesses, adventure attractions and the network of tourist services. It benefits from the total number of visitors Costa Rica receives, which has been growing year-on-year since the pandemic, with no apparent impact from rising insecurity or higher prices compared with other tropical destinations in the Americas. That is why they recently bought new land next to the waterfall and plan to build a glass bridge in front of it, a unique structure in the country.

“We are honoring the legacy of the leaders who founded the town and the association. This is our goose that lays the golden eggs. We know how to generate revenue and channel it for the benefit of people, taking advantage of an activity that is very much ours,” Mora says, referring to cultural factors that encourage communal investments without depending on the government.

Travelers perceive that image, like Keyla Rodríguez from Puerto Rico, who spends much of the year traveling to different countries. “They have very good access and services without losing the natural feel. The guide told us this morning that it belongs to the local people and you can see how they care for it,” she said. The association also plans to create an itinerary so visitors can learn about communal works and better understand where they are — for example, passing by the town cemetery to see the common grave where the bodies of those who died in the eruption that helped turn La Fortuna into what it is today are buried.

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Daniel Ortega Establishes Latin America’s Last Dictatorship In Nicaragua

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Former guerrilla fighter and Nicaraguan historian Mónica Baltodano — who risked her life in her youth to overthrow the Somoza dictatorship — was stunned by the announcement made by Daniel Ortega on July 19: “I first reacted with astonishment. The elections they have organized have been questionable, if not clearly fraudulent, for decades, so the words were nothing more than an expression of the brazenness with which they have been running the government for some time,” says the ex-guerrilla commander, who is living in exile in Costa Rica.

That the death sentence for electoral processes was pronounced precisely on the day that commemorates the triumph of the Sandinista Revolution completed the bitterest irony: the same date that in 1979 promised the birth of democracy in the country served, almost half a century later, to definitively bury its last vestiges. Ortega is not only placing a tombstone on Nicaragua’s already drowned democracy, he is also cementing the region’s last dictatorship, sealing the country’s autocratic drift and paving the way for a new family dynasty. “It is the antithesis of what that struggle meant, of the aims and commitments of a fight that cost so many lives. Announcing that on the anniversary of the end of a dictatorship is like a mockery,” Baltodano says.

Over nearly two decades in power, Ortega has consolidated his autocratic regime through a gradual strategy of institutional capture and systematic repression. He has co-opted the independence of the judiciary, the Supreme Electoral Council, and the National Assembly. He pushed constitutional reforms to eliminate term limits and establish his indefinite reappointment. Recurrent fraud and the outlawing of opposition parties have been his means of undermining elections. The elderly former guerrilla, now 80, also implemented a de facto police state after the violent repression of the 2018 protests that demanded an end to the regime.

Ortega imprisoned the main presidential pre-candidates, civic leaders, journalists, and members of the Catholic Church prior to the 2021 elections, which he said he won with more than 75% of the vote. He also ordered the mass closure and confiscation of NGOs, media outlets, and independent universities. He has stripped thousands of dissidents — labeled “traitors to the homeland” — of their citizenship and rights and forced them into exile. All of this has resulted in the absolute centralization of power alongside his wife and co-president, Rosario Murillo, who has styled herself the regime’s heir.

For Baltodano, Ortega’s latest move is nothing more than formalizing what in practice was already in operation. However, she warns that the legal engineering the regime plans to use to finalize the autocratic model remains to be seen, comparing it to totalitarian schemes such as North Korea’s. The National Assembly — Nicaragua’s parliament, completely controlled by Ortega — is preparing to approve the constitutional reforms necessary to implement the leader’s plan to end elections. “Democracy in Nicaragua no longer exists, but this is the final nail in the coffin. I still have doubts about the route they will take. It could be the creation of sham bodies, like a large assembly that ratifies Ortega in power but that really doesn’t function as such, and is a masquerade,” Baltodano says.

The historian emphasizes that the underlying aim is not only to neutralize any vestige of institutionalism, but to definitively strangle the opposition in exile and those stripped of their nationality. “What is beyond doubt is that whatever they propose will serve a purpose: to guarantee perpetuity or to make it even harder to remove them from power. They want to create an absolute impossibility for the opposition in exile to have any chance of considering participation in elections,” she explains.

Family succession

With the opposition totally blocked under a regime without elections, the question generating the most debate is the process of familial succession of power. Although Ortega said he expects to govern for another 10 years, his advanced age raises doubts about his real ability to remain at the head of the regime. That leaves his wife, the esoteric Murillo, who has long yearned to rule Nicaragua. After her come their nine children. On the feasibility of imposing the presidential couple’s offspring in power — in a dynastic style reminiscent of the Somoza dynasty they once fought — Baltodano notes important qualifications: “I don’t think conditions exist for the army to accept a dynastic dictatorship inherited by the children,” she says.

So far the Nicaraguan military has maintained an unbreakable loyalty to Ortega, despite Murillo having launched a purge against key figures tied to the military apparatus, such as Bayardo Arce Castaño, one of the nine commanders of the Sandinista revolution and historically close to Ortega, or Humberto Ortega, former military strategist of the Sandinistas and army chief who died in 2024 at 77 years of age while held under house arrest by his older brother and sister-in-law.

Despite the repressive apparatus and the image of monolithic control, Baltodano stresses that within the state structure, the police, and the armed forces, there is a latent discontent that the regime only manages to contain through coercive subjugation. “They are operating through terror, but discontent exists. I do not doubt there are disagreements within the military, the police, among state employees. There is no way this can be sustained for long without new outbreaks of rebellion,” the historian predicts.

Orlando Pérez, professor of political science at the University of North Texas at Dallas, stresses that the Ortega–Murillo plan seeks to establish the line of succession in the co-president and, later, in their children, particularly Laureano Ortega Murillo, the regime’s liaison with the governments of Russia and China. However, he warns that the viability of a family dynasty runs into a key domestic actor: the armed forces. “The question I ask, and that many analysts ask, is whether the Nicaraguan army would allow that succession. I think it is the only institution within Nicaragua that could ultimately act as some moderating power,” he says.

Despite that potential role, the political scientist clarifies that the military institution has suffered a constant degradation in its autonomy: “Ortega and Murillo have purged the vast majority of high- and mid-ranking officers and have hollowed out the army’s professionalism, creating a force bent and subordinated to the family. Today they are totally subordinate to the regime.”

At the center of succession bets is a system unique in Latin America: a country governed by a family, a situation not seen for several decades when the region was ruled by military regimes. “Nicaragua is a sui generis case,” says Katya Salazar, executive director of the Foundation for Due Process, based in Washington. “I think in other eras of history it could be classified as a monarchy, because it is not government. The presidential couple does what they want and this decision that there will be no more elections is part of that madness,” she asserts.

The Washington paradox

Ortega’s definitive blow to democracy comes in a turbulent regional context, with pressure from the administration of U.S. President Donald Trump on neighboring regimes such as Cuba’s and a complex international scenario. However, what stands out is Washington’s tepid reaction to Ortega’s new escalation. Baltodano points to a cold calculation by the U.S. leader: “The calculation is precisely that Nicaragua is not in the international spotlight. It has completely fallen to the background. Ortega saw, for example, that the United States has no problem dealing with dictators in Venezuela, as long as their economic problems or control over oil are resolved.”

Unlike other crisis hotspots in the region or the Middle East, Nicaragua currently occupies a secondary place on the U.S. diplomatic agenda. According to Pérez, the U.S. government faces pragmatic limitations and contradictions in its dealings with Managua, where rhetoric clashes with areas of functional cooperation. “The U.S. government and Nicaragua’s government continue to cooperate, for example, on migration. In addition, the United States buys gold from Nicaragua, which is an important export, and Nicaragua remains a CAFTA-DR member,” the specialist explains, referring to the free trade agreement between the U.S., Central America, and the Dominican Republic.

According to Pérez’s analysis, the only major punitive measure left for Washington would be to expel Nicaragua from that agreement, although it is an option with undesirable side effects for the entire region. “That is the last lever that can be pulled, but it would have repercussions not only on Nicaragua but on the other members. It would sharply affect maquila workers, the textile supply chain in Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica, and create strong migratory pressures. That is why I see it as difficult,” he says.

Added to this is a weighty sociopolitical reality in the United States: the Nicaraguan diaspora lacks the electoral muscle and influence enjoyed by Cuban or Venezuelan communities in Washington and in key states such as Florida.

Katya Salazar also asks what measures the United States can take when its government repeatedly states an intention to end authoritarian regimes in the region. “The question is whether the United States follows the Monroe Doctrine — or Donroe now, as it has with the rest of the region — and whether it will decide to do something like it did in Venezuela. Nicaragua survives thanks to trade with North American countries. Is the United States willing to cut that off, to affect that? Is Canada willing to limit that?” she asks.

While the U.S. government is stretched across multiple fronts (Iran is a nightmare that could ultimately hurt Trump with voters), Ortega has managed to impose his one-party, family regime without resistance. The last dictatorship in Latin America. “What happens in Nicaragua is a case far removed from the rest of the region. I would say it is more a case for psychiatry,” says Salazar. In a world whose eyes are on other crises, Salazar does not rule out that Ortega could get away with it. “This will end the day those characters die,” she concludes.

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El Gobierno De Fernández Escala La Tensión En Costa Rica Y Acusa De “golpe De Estado” Al Poder Judicial

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Un alegato de supuesto “golpe de Estado” se convirtió en Costa Rica en el más reciente episodio inédito que alimenta la escalada de acusaciones del Gobierno, dirigido por la presidenta Laura Fernández y por el expresidente Rodrigo Chaves, contra el Poder Judicial, al que señalan como adversario de su discurso de transformación que pretenden asentar en el país, reconocido internacionalmente por su estabilidad y la calidad de su democracia.

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El Circuito Judicial del Ministerio Público en la capital costarricense, el 23 de julio.

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